Tinkling

I knew Switzerland was around the corner when cow bells started tinkling and the meadows were alpine.  We had  come to the border region by way of Foucherans, Ornans, Lods and to climb to  the source of the river loue  ... a grand sight.   This was not strictly the Sigeric route of La Via Francigena but nevertheless a pretty region.   

Then through the rain to Pontalier where a rotund Frenchman tried to throttle his  ex  wife in an elegant bar.  The pilgrims life offers diversity. 

In mist over Les Fourgs to the border town of Jougue then, I reckon, the Swisss VF actually starts at Saint Maurice

Interestingly the first night in Switzerland the priest refused me refuge in Orbe so I was banished to the camping ground for a night of wind and rain.

Here in Lausanne the gothic cathedral is  magnificent.  An important site for medeiaeval pilgrimage,  its construction began in 1150 and ended in 1275.

Martin Robinson.

The sense of treading ground made holy by past  events is crucial.

The weather is unpredictable at Lake Leman.

ultreya

Oz Peregrinus

Pilgrims Progress

I do not know what Chaucer would think of the ragged progress of  a modern pilgrim because I could spend days exploring the intricacies of Besancon, capital of Franch Comte, home of Victor Hugo; monumental of the citadel of architect Vauban;  in Gallo Romain times the citadel was the acropolis:


Geoffrey Chaucer

And palmers to be
seeking foreign strands
To distant shrines
renowned in sundry lands

It rains in Besancon

Ultreya

Oz Peregrinus

On the back

The oz pilgrim gear includes:   sleeping bag by Kathmandu: Gunyah tent by One Planet ::: supplied by Camping World;  Rain cape by Australian Geographic: Boots by Redback:

I has been great hiking through rural France; on La Via Francigena,  mainly flat with some hills, through enchanting villages; and my pick as the prettiest town must be Chalons en Champagne:  from Besancon it is southish towards Pontalier and Switzerland;

John Loori:

If you miss the moment you miss your life

deus nobiscum in via

Oz Peregrinus

Bubbling bitumen

La Belle France certainly puts on a range of weather in August on La Via Francigena:   Rain at Besancon;  Searing sun at Gy, where it was so hot that my walkng pole would get srtck into bubbles on the bitumen:

But this does not matter one  whit:  The fact that I have walked here from Canterbury cathedral is miraculous; putting it down to the work by Doctors Narayan; McCredie; McKay:   Professor McKay is of course supported by great staff in radiation oncology at Canberra Hospital: 

Sir Walter Raleigh.:

Give me my Scallop shell of quiet
My staffe of Faith to walke upon

the weather changes in Besancon

ultreya

Oz Peregrinus

Sunflower fields forever

From Bar and the night of the Wild Dutchman through vineyards and sunflower fields to Clairvaux where St Bernard founded the Abbey in 1115 now Frances most secure prison to Chateauvillain through the forests for a firecracking wedding and drenched to Mormant for salvation by Madame Michelot at the former site of the Knights Templar qnd through drizzle to Langres home of Denis Diderot and a Gallo Romain town where I climb the south tower.

Yes La Via Francigena offers diversity:

Buddha said that you can not travel the path until you become the path:

Deus Nobiscum in Via

It is suspect weather in Langres

Oz Peregrinus

Sleeping savage

If a pilgrim needs to sleep savage to make distance on La Via Francigena then choose a copse of trees because the dawn can be chilling and the trees break the dew.  Recollecting; dishevelled I stumbled into Chalons St Stephens Cathedral:  of course it belongs to everybody but  for a fleeting instant  it was all mine.

The French countryside I like:  through avenues of corn and cabbages; and fields scalped to a brown green hue:  Flat, very flat.

My French improves; but my accent remains antipodean diabolical:  But the hospitality of the French people is superb; none more so than in Bar Sur Aube; with Jean the missionary: 

I had to negotiate purchase of a new camera and postage of discs to Australia:  It was not just a transaction; but an exercise in courtesy:

ad limina apostolorum

It is a mild day in Bar sur Aube

Oz Pereginus

Kicks from Champagne

Even a modest coupe can cost nine euros but one is in champagne country and must try:    the canal route from chanlons along the marne to vitry is so good:  the manic french traffic can kill the spirit on the roads;

deus nobiscum in via

oz peregrinus

vitry la francois

Julius Caesar

If Julius Caesar had relied on legionnaires like me he would never have conquered Gaul. I can not manage the Legion pace , but then his soldiers did not have to dodge tractors and trucks at harvest time:   Still I am not carrying my own shovel;   It is great, though, to be back in La Belle France, where 40 years ago I dallied as a young vagbond:  I just love this country.    The VF signage seems to end at Licques so I am striking my own way:   I have met no other VF pilgrims;   Weather has been mild  ::: good because I had to sleep out savage in the bushes outside the terrible town of Tergnier: 

As Bob Dylan penned;   Well Im pressing on, Yes Im pressing on,

It is very mild in Reims,

Ultreya

Oz Peregrinus