Eternally Rome

Thus did Don Bruno bless me in the vatican where history believed Saint Pietro was buried face down and it was the most profound experience and mirrors the blessing i received from Canon clare in canterbury.  the walking pilgrimage from canterbury to rome, La via francigena,  has been the richest journey of my life.  I would like to thank my wife and daughter for their support during  this pilgrimage.  I would also like to thank Lord Jesus Christ who walked besides me during this pilgrimage.

It is fate , too , that I am in rome in time for the canonisation of Sister Mary MacKillop.

Saint Augustine.

Faith is to believe what you do not see.   the reward of faith is to see what you believe.

deus nobiscum in via

Oz Peregrinus

Rainy day Sutri

My cohorts in cultural chaos, dancer and giovanni, think i stroll from one bowl of pasta to the next .  well that is not correct and my 7 hour slog through the rain from vetralla to sutri is part and parcel of the pilgrim life on la via francigena.

Mostly there has been fine and holy welcomes at the ospitalita but not at santa rosa in Viterbo.  avoid it. 

The vf through lazio is mainly farming country with rolling hills.   and dogs.  I surely needed the bastoni which i cut from the woods in northern tuscany.    I shall leave the bastoni in la storta.

Freya stark

this is a great moment when you see, however distant, the goal of your wandering.  the thing which has been living in your imagination suddenly becomes part of the tangible world. 

It is overcast in La storta, on the fringe of the eternal city. 

   Oz Peregrinus

Saint Christina

I had a marvellous time in The Basilica of Saint Christina in Bolsena yesterday.  It is good to slow down and reflect.  How a place builds.  And note the miracle of the eucharist there and the frescoes.  Italy astounds.   Today I walked from Bolsena to this internet cafe in Montefiascone.  I must go on to Viterbo. 
Rome gets closer.  Sister Mary is canonised on 17 Ocotber.   La Prima Santa for Australia.

La Via Francigena has been a remarkable personal journey for me.  It is not over yet of course.  I hope the autumn rains hold off for another week.   I open my arms wide to the glories of Italia.  And try and keep my legs pumping of  course.

Do not wait for the storm to pass.
Learn to dance in the rain.

Whom?

It is cool in  Monefiascone

ciao

Oz Peregrinus

In Tuscany

Tuscany seems to be with me forever from the hill towns to the olive groves to the magic of siena, san gimignano, san miniato where i rollicked with the priests at dinner at the convent of san francesco.   montereggioni is something else.  i open my mind and my heart to Italy.   the body holds up , a bit tired, but then i am no spring chicken.   i crorssed ino Lazio.

it is fine in Aquapendente. 

deus nobiscum in via

oz peregrinus

Fatal beauty

Italy has a fatal beauty which is why conquerors viewed it with hunger.    And none is more fatal than Tuscany which is a huge section of La Via Francigena.  Here in Lucca the city arrests with its prosperity.  I try and negotiate a reprint of Albertos maps, buy a new walking bastoni, for my last one gave up the ghost, and repair stubbed toes.   I thought Italy would be a pleasant stroll from one plate of risotto to the next but that is not so.   it is just as tough as the rest of the journey.   the tuscan hill towns are magical.  there has been light rain in the hills, and there are daily concerts of the music of Giacomo Puccini.

Phil Cousineau

The practice of soulful travel is to discover the overlapping point between history and everyday life. 

oz peregrinus

Sister Mary MacKillop

i AM REASONABLY ON PROGRAMME TO REACH ROME IN TIME FOR THE CANONISATION CEREMONY,    AFTER RICE PADDIES AND MOUNTAINS I AM NOW AT THE SEA , MARINA MASSA.

ULTREYA

OZ PEREGRINUS

AT THE WARM SEASIDE

Rice

Alberto warned me about the rice paddies where I could not sleep savage because of the canals which breed mosquitoes.   Flat country of Lombardy.

And so did it remain for countless miles until past Piacenza and my memory of Piazza Cavilli 12 years ago.   It is plod after plod on La Via Francigena.  Then south and east to the beautiful hill town of Costamezzana and then refuge at Fornovo duomo before the climb and climb and tight trails to Cassio then on to Passo de Cisa.  Take care on the trails, in this alpine region between Emilia Romagna and Tuscany.

Until Pontremoli and the fatal beauty of La Toscana.

Albert Camus

Dont walk behind me I may not lead
Walk besides me and be my friend.,


It is warm in Pontremoli


oz Peregrinus

Just love Italia

It is great to be back in Italy after 12 years and to see the passegiatta and the ragazzi in the evenings and to drink the best coffee in the world and to eat risotto and the pasta so perfect.  I got drenched the first day coming down from the Grand St Bernard Pass but since then the weather has been good and though I staggered on the route through Aoste I am now in Piedmont and at Alberto Contes farmhouse in Roppolo.  The body is holding up and the spirit is strong.

Bob Dylan


Well Im pressing on.  Yes Im pressing on
Shake the dust off your feet, dont look back
Nothing can hold you down

It is warm in Roppolo

Deus nobiscum in Via

Oz Peregrinus

Swiss Leg

After Lausanne the weather was superb and even though Swizterland is famed for its mountains i must say that the route of La Via Francigena around Lac Leman was a delight particularly through the vineyards of Chasselas grapes planted centuries ago by Cistercian monks.    Montreux overwhelmed me with its blatant wealth.    What a contrast to the Abbey at St Maurice whicvh has looked after the town for 1500 years.  And a good days walk to Martigny.   Note that a lot of the trails are narrow mountain ones.  Take a walking pole.   In Orsieres I attended a very moving signing mass,  Of course the mountains may have given me an incorrect sense of power becasue foolishly I went from Orsieres to the Grand St Bernard pass in one day.    I recommend stopping over at Bourg St Pierre before the final ascent.   Also it was a delight to stay at the hospice at the pass  where i attended mass and prayers and ate good swiss beef.   This is the Pass of history .. . Hannibal, Charlemagne,  Napoleon .... it seems to mark the crossing from north to southern europe.

Now I am in Aoste, with its rich roman heritage.  The weather is mild.

Paul Gauguin.

I shut my eyes in order to see.

For is not imagination the inner eye?

Deus Nobiscum in Via

Oz Peregrinus 

Tinkling

I knew Switzerland was around the corner when cow bells started tinkling and the meadows were alpine.  We had  come to the border region by way of Foucherans, Ornans, Lods and to climb to  the source of the river loue  ... a grand sight.   This was not strictly the Sigeric route of La Via Francigena but nevertheless a pretty region.   

Then through the rain to Pontalier where a rotund Frenchman tried to throttle his  ex  wife in an elegant bar.  The pilgrims life offers diversity. 

In mist over Les Fourgs to the border town of Jougue then, I reckon, the Swisss VF actually starts at Saint Maurice

Interestingly the first night in Switzerland the priest refused me refuge in Orbe so I was banished to the camping ground for a night of wind and rain.

Here in Lausanne the gothic cathedral is  magnificent.  An important site for medeiaeval pilgrimage,  its construction began in 1150 and ended in 1275.

Martin Robinson.

The sense of treading ground made holy by past  events is crucial.

The weather is unpredictable at Lake Leman.

ultreya

Oz Peregrinus

Pilgrims Progress

I do not know what Chaucer would think of the ragged progress of  a modern pilgrim because I could spend days exploring the intricacies of Besancon, capital of Franch Comte, home of Victor Hugo; monumental of the citadel of architect Vauban;  in Gallo Romain times the citadel was the acropolis:


Geoffrey Chaucer

And palmers to be
seeking foreign strands
To distant shrines
renowned in sundry lands

It rains in Besancon

Ultreya

Oz Peregrinus

On the back

The oz pilgrim gear includes:   sleeping bag by Kathmandu: Gunyah tent by One Planet ::: supplied by Camping World;  Rain cape by Australian Geographic: Boots by Redback:

I has been great hiking through rural France; on La Via Francigena,  mainly flat with some hills, through enchanting villages; and my pick as the prettiest town must be Chalons en Champagne:  from Besancon it is southish towards Pontalier and Switzerland;

John Loori:

If you miss the moment you miss your life

deus nobiscum in via

Oz Peregrinus

Bubbling bitumen

La Belle France certainly puts on a range of weather in August on La Via Francigena:   Rain at Besancon;  Searing sun at Gy, where it was so hot that my walkng pole would get srtck into bubbles on the bitumen:

But this does not matter one  whit:  The fact that I have walked here from Canterbury cathedral is miraculous; putting it down to the work by Doctors Narayan; McCredie; McKay:   Professor McKay is of course supported by great staff in radiation oncology at Canberra Hospital: 

Sir Walter Raleigh.:

Give me my Scallop shell of quiet
My staffe of Faith to walke upon

the weather changes in Besancon

ultreya

Oz Peregrinus

Sunflower fields forever

From Bar and the night of the Wild Dutchman through vineyards and sunflower fields to Clairvaux where St Bernard founded the Abbey in 1115 now Frances most secure prison to Chateauvillain through the forests for a firecracking wedding and drenched to Mormant for salvation by Madame Michelot at the former site of the Knights Templar qnd through drizzle to Langres home of Denis Diderot and a Gallo Romain town where I climb the south tower.

Yes La Via Francigena offers diversity:

Buddha said that you can not travel the path until you become the path:

Deus Nobiscum in Via

It is suspect weather in Langres

Oz Peregrinus

Sleeping savage

If a pilgrim needs to sleep savage to make distance on La Via Francigena then choose a copse of trees because the dawn can be chilling and the trees break the dew.  Recollecting; dishevelled I stumbled into Chalons St Stephens Cathedral:  of course it belongs to everybody but  for a fleeting instant  it was all mine.

The French countryside I like:  through avenues of corn and cabbages; and fields scalped to a brown green hue:  Flat, very flat.

My French improves; but my accent remains antipodean diabolical:  But the hospitality of the French people is superb; none more so than in Bar Sur Aube; with Jean the missionary: 

I had to negotiate purchase of a new camera and postage of discs to Australia:  It was not just a transaction; but an exercise in courtesy:

ad limina apostolorum

It is a mild day in Bar sur Aube

Oz Pereginus

Kicks from Champagne

Even a modest coupe can cost nine euros but one is in champagne country and must try:    the canal route from chanlons along the marne to vitry is so good:  the manic french traffic can kill the spirit on the roads;

deus nobiscum in via

oz peregrinus

vitry la francois

Julius Caesar

If Julius Caesar had relied on legionnaires like me he would never have conquered Gaul. I can not manage the Legion pace , but then his soldiers did not have to dodge tractors and trucks at harvest time:   Still I am not carrying my own shovel;   It is great, though, to be back in La Belle France, where 40 years ago I dallied as a young vagbond:  I just love this country.    The VF signage seems to end at Licques so I am striking my own way:   I have met no other VF pilgrims;   Weather has been mild  ::: good because I had to sleep out savage in the bushes outside the terrible town of Tergnier: 

As Bob Dylan penned;   Well Im pressing on, Yes Im pressing on,

It is very mild in Reims,

Ultreya

Oz Peregrinus

Lost on a pheasant farm

The blessing by Canon Clare was most moving;  thanks for the signal Joe:   Of course I  got lost on North Downs way; into a pheasant farm, with beefy kent farmers with shotguns  :" wot is this pilgrimage; then?"   So a tip for colonial pilgrims on La Via Francigena:   if you see a stile; climb over it!   The Pride of Kent ferry drifted into Calais on three engines:  but we got there:  Saw Rodins burghers:  great:   once upon a notion I visited  his museum in Paris:  Despite being rocked by bronchitis, I harmonised:

It is a fine day in Calais:

Deus nobiscum in via

OP
 

The Canon at One

Simon photographed me at stone zero in Canterbury Cathedral.  So starts La Via Francigena.   Canon Clare will see me at one pm for the blessing. This is a holy town , in spite of the icecream shops.  The flight from Australia has knocked me around a bit.  I will be out of tune for evensong in the Cathedral .

This blog/pilgrimage is dedicated to Radiation Oncology at Canberra Hospital.

Ultreya 

Gently growls The Don

I ponder how my angular friend, Don Giovanni, would declare his spirituality at St Peters.  It is necessary to declare that to earn the testimonium.   After all, The Don is the epitomy of pragmatism. A fact is a fact is a fact.   Strange.  In his youth he was a guerilla Christia , punting religious tracts in the rough docklands of Melbourne. Often chased by irate Baptists and heated Calabrians, he learned to hurdle fences.  This athleticism stood him in good stead as he became one of the foremost high jumpers in the Antipodes.  He has legs right up to his neck.   He is quizzical about La Via Francigena.   He may find the crossroads to God at Aquapendente.

Deus Nobiscum in Via 

The Polish Ballroom Dancer

The Polish Ballroom Dancer has threatened to bail me up in Besancon at the feet of the Jura.   But I think he holds a slight trepidation about the nation of  France.  Last there he was chased down the Champs Elysses by a furious femme: the Dancer's French language was insulting.  Of course his accent had been tortured by a not injudicious mix of guttural Polish and Australian slang.   But the Dancer is a good man.   He is an occasional practising Catholic but a fine Christian, and I know his heart is with me on this pilgrimage.

A bientot. 

Bring me little water, Sylvie

It is with a conceit borne of western affluence that a Pilgrim blindly accepts that clean drinking water is available on La Via Francigena.  The source of life.  Those old Romans knew it,  piping water from the seven hills along an aqueduct into the hustle and bustle of the Forum.   But nearly a billion people on this planet do not have access to clean drinking water. That is why the charity building filter pots for Laotian villages is impressive.   See http://www.abundantwater.org/.

Ultreya.

Going with Gunyah

An ultra-light Gunyah 2 tent  (by One Planet )  is the canopy of choice for Pilgrim on La Via Francigena.   Weight for full tent with footprint is about 1.3kg.  It is a modern tent for an ancient road.   There is only one loop pole frame but I do not expect high winds across Europe in the seasons of summer to autumn.  I carried too much weight on El Camino de Santiago and the only excess I wish to carry now is a fresh batard with fromage.

ad limina apostolorum  

Redbacks in Rome

A redback spider is a small insect but a very poisonous one.   A Redback Boot is a soft boot but a very strong one.   These boots have transported Oz Pilgrim to many a strange and holy place.

 A new pair have been broken in for La Via Francigena in order, with the grace of God, to transport the Pilgrim to the tomb of Saint Peter in Rome.

The pilgrimage is dedicated to the unit of Radiation Oncology at Canberra Hospital.